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At 13,600 feet, my hiking companion, John L. decided not to go any further. Climbing was extremely difficult on loose talus, from there to the summit ridge at 14,060 feet. The author of the guidebook wrote that scree and talus could be avoided on this route but I was convinced he had never come this way. We could find no way around it. John would wait for me at the 12,500 foot level.